This week I’m publishing a recipe for lohikeitto, a traditional Finnish salmon soup that goes heavy on dill. It is scrumptious (and I’m not simply saying that as a result of I developed it), however as I poured full-fat heavy whipping cream right into a simmering pot of contemporary salmon and root greens, I couldn’t assist however hear that outdated Italian adage at the back of my thoughts: By no means combine fish and dairy!
We’ve lengthy recognized {that a} handful of sharp parmesan belongs on a chargrilled oyster, and who may argue with the perfection of cream cheese and lox? To be sincere, I’ve by no means given a lot thought to this “rule” in any respect. However after tasting Lohikeitto, one thing clicked into place. The reality is that fish and dairy don’t simply tolerate one another—they love one another.
Salmon is fatty, by fish requirements, and cream is wealthy. They double down on one another’s decadence and each convey their very own sweetness to the general dish. A contemporary shaving of a tough, aged cheese on a seafood pasta emphasizes the salinity and counterbalances the pure sweetness of shrimp, clams, or calamari. When you don’t imagine me, strive it your self.
The parable has snowballed to the purpose the place some imagine mixing fish and cheese is someway not solely vaguely gross, however actively poisonous. There’s no foundation for this, and mixing contemporary salmon and heavy cream is completely high-quality. In actuality, the separation of seafood and dairy is just a product of Italian geography: cheese is just not traditionally made the place the great seafood is. Nobody thought to place them collectively, and ultimately individuals began saying you possibly can’t. At the moment, you possibly can, and you need to. A very good place to start out is my recipe for lohikeitto.
What’s your favourite fish and dairy combo? Let me know within the feedback!
