Deventer is a historic city within the east of the Netherlands, on the banks of the IJssel river. This isn’t part of the nation that we go to usually, and we had by no means been to Deventer earlier than. I knew Restaurant Bouwkunde solely by the repute of being a wine lover’s paradise. Heleen Growth and Pieter van de Pavoordt have run this restaurant for 40 years already. The restaurant is listed within the Michelin information with a “bib gourmand” for good meals at average costs. And since Deventer was sort of on the way in which to Oldenzaal the place I needed to be early Monday morning (extra about that in my subsequent publish), I made a decision this was a great alternative to present Bouwkunde a attempt. There’s a mounted menu of which you’ll be able to select 3, 4, or 5 programs. We opted for five programs together with cheese (75 euros).
We began with a glass of Crémant du Jura, a glowing wine from Chardonnay made in the identical approach as Champagne with a second fermentation within the bottle, however from the Jura area. Which is sort of uncommon, as Crémant from Burgundy, Alsace, or Loire are extra widespread. Sommelier and proprietor Heleen is a vinoloog like me (Dutch diploma for wine data) and a member of the board of the Dutch wine academy. The wine record is superb, particularly the number of Burgundy (about 40 white and 40 crimson), additionally from older vintages, and for very affordable costs. Within the Netherlands it is not uncommon in eating places to promote wine at thrice the retail value or much more, however at Bouwkunde there may be solely a average surcharge in comparison with retail costs, making it rather more enjoyable to order a pleasant bottle at lower than half the value in comparison with most different eating places.
And so that’s what we did, with some assist from Heleen because the wine record solely mentions appellation, producer, and classic, and whilst a vinoloog you have no idea what all of the wines from all producers are like. Collectively we picked a Chassagne-Montrachet 2019 by Jean-Claude Ramonet, and it was glorious. Simply the way in which we like our white Burgundy: complicated, minerality, and a wonderful steadiness.
The amuse bouche was salsify in crispy kataifi pastry with chive mayonnaise. Very nicely executed: very crispy, the pastry didn’t overpower the salsify, and the chives offered a contemporary accent.
The appetizer was hamachi (kingfish) ceviche with black radish ravioli, and “Tom Ka Pla” sauce. The latter is coconut milk with lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves, however with out the chillies. 5 spice powder was sprinkled on the rim of the plate, so as to add to your liking. The fish was served at room temperature and the sauce had a light however scrumptious taste. White Burgundy with Thai meals will not be a standard pairing, however by leaving out the chilies, it labored very nicely.
The subsequent course was natural hen breast with little gem lettuce, anchovies, parmesan crumble, and aioli. This was like a heat model of a Ceasar salad with nice depth of taste and completely tender hen. I believe I’ll desire the lettuce to be much less cooked (and thus extra crunchy). Once more an amazing pairing with the Chassagne.
Subsequent was cabbage, barbecued with beurre noisette, with a miso and celeriac cream, and XO sauce. The cabbage had good crispy edges with barbecue taste and this was one other nice pairing.
Because the wine costs are so pleasant, we determined to get one other bottle to have with our major course and the cheese. Along with Heleen we selected a Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 2012 by La Pousse d’Or. It was younger than I might have anticipated from a 2012 classic, with good fruit and balanced acidity.
The principle course was veal strip steak with cream of caramelized onions, and shimeji mushrooms. The veal was properly medium uncommon and the mushroom taste got here via very nicely. A superb pairing with the Chambolle.
The pre-dessert was served earlier than the cheese and was certainly extra a pre-dessert than a palate cleanser (as a result of it was fairly creamy and candy), so after the cheese would have been higher I believe.
The number of (principally French) cheeses was very good.
We opted for some cheeses that labored nicely with the Chambolle.
Espresso got here with waffles with the restaurant’s brand in chocolate.
This was a really good dinner and it’s actually a disgrace this restaurant will not be nearer to the place we reside. Though the chef is new, it’s clear there may be plenty of expertise right here. They know very nicely what they’re doing and it reveals. And it’s positively a wine lover’s paradise. We didn’t end the bottle of crimson and determined to take it house to complete there. Heleen knew we had been staying at a resort and requested if we had been going to complete the bottle within the room. As a result of if we did, she would lend us some wine glasses to stop us from consuming such a pleasant wine out of cups (which we’d by no means do, however she’d solely simply met me). Simply the truth that she supplied to lend us wine glasses speaks volumes to the service at Bouwkunde. Strongly really useful.
