Produced by Federico De Cesare Viola. Profiles by Ray Isle, Emanuele Gobbi, Åsa Johansson, Giambattista Marchetto, Andrea Petrini, and Flavia Rendina.
Naples has grown ever extra fashionable as a vacationer vacation spot lately. However after a number of days of town’s superb chaos — and, admittedly, the greatest pizza on earth — heading out of city into the encompassing countryside to go to a few of the nice wineries of Campania may come as a wanted break.
You possibly can even enterprise additional east to sunny Puglia, or south to hilly Calabria.
Southern Italy’s main focus is strong reds, from native varieties corresponding to Aglianico, Gaglioppo, and Negroamaro, however there are distinctive white wines to be discovered, too. And at many wineries, notably the quartet profiled right here, you will discover wonderful eating places and, in some instances, equally spectacular locations to remain.
Ceraudo, Calabria: Crotone
Perched on a hill overlooking the Ionian Sea on the Calabrian coast, the city of Strongoli was as soon as generally known as Petelia, millennia in the past, when this whole area was generally known as Magna Graecia. Now, within the surrounding countryside, amongst fields, vineyards, and a small rural village remodeled right into a hospitality enterprise each rustic and refined, the work of the Ceraudo household permits guests to breathe an environment of antiquity.
The Crotone space is ideally suited to grape vines, due to the character of the soil and the proximity of the ocean, which moderates temperatures and offers a gentle breeze. However the Ceraudo property is not a monoculture. The property can be a big Mediterranean backyard, and is surrounded by centuries-old olive timber and citrus groves. All of this surrounds the central nucleus, a Seventeenth-century baronial constructing, the wine cellar, the oil mill, a tiny church, and the agri-tourism advanced.
This district was as soon as known as Dattilo, a legendary race from Greek mythology. It is also the identify of the household’s flagship restaurant (Michelin star since 2011, and likewise a inexperienced star for eco-friendly practices). Underneath the steerage of Caterina Ceraudo, it has change into a supply for flavorful, imaginative cooking, with elements largely coming from the natural farm.
All the things is family-run, with Susanna Ceraudo heading up advertising and hospitality, Giuseppe Ceraudo overseeing agronomic administration, and Caterina as chef. Oil and wine are the spine of the expertise on the Ceraudo home, however hospitality is essential as properly, one thing appreciated by those that arrive right here looking for tranquility.
Amongst centuries-old olive timber, maritime pines, lemon and pomegranate timber, friends keep in rooms or mini-apartments furnished with native ceramics. Immersed in an space identified for its archaeological significance in addition to its pure magnificence, Ceraudo presents experiences that start with wine and olive oil, however are enriched with experiences specializing in historical past, magnificence and well-being.
Horseback using, crusing journeys, yoga, and guided trekking are additionally choices. The realm is good for forest bathing within the close by Pantano Pure Oasis, with meandering paths amongst stone pines, elms, eucalyptus, acacias, oaks, willows, and an undergrowth of bramble bushes.
It doesn’t matter what, be sure that to begin the day with one in all Caterina’s gourmand breakfasts, that includes seasonal fruit, natural juices and jams from the property’s merchandise, artisanal bread, and native cured meats and cheeses.
Wine to attempt
Ceraudo Val di Neto Dattilo Gaglioppo
Produced from grapes farmed organically on the hills of Strongoli and harvested at evening, it is a basic expression of the native Gaglioppo grape. Structured and spicy, it’s an ideal match for the extreme flavors of Calabrian delicacies.
Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania: Avellino
Feudi di San Gregorio’s Serpico was one of many groundbreaking wines of Campania, a 100% Aglianico pink that, whereas it receives much less ageing than the basic Taurasis of the area, was of world-class high quality. This expression, maybe, pointed the way in which towards a extra fashionable path for Campania’s wines when it first appeared within the mid-Nineteen Nineties.
It’s additionally price noting that whereas the label on a bottle is not any assure of a wine’s high quality, Feudi’s elegant, modernist, anti-traditional labels, are, in a means, key to proprietor Antonio Capaldo’s fundamental philosophy (like his father earlier than him): A bottle of wine, and a murals share the identical inventive course of. The wine labels are the work of Massimo Vignelli, a legend of graphic design who additionally created the enduring New York Metropolis subway map, amongst many different icons of visible tradition.
That’s evident within the vineyard itself, designed by architects Hikaru Mori and Maurizio Zito, which maintains a type of austere modernist class whereas on the similar time mixing into the pure world round it. Guests are initially greeted by the constructing’s clear traces and grid-like metal roof, which appears to drift above the encompassing gardens. Inside, the vast majority of the vineyard exists underground. As you descend, it turns into cooler and darker. Deep inside, the glass dice of the tasting space is suspended over the ranks of wood barrels, once more an interaction of pure and man-made supplies. Alongside the way in which, you’ll want to catch the pink neon lettering on one wall, a quote from Massimo Vignelli, addressed to Antonio Capaldo:
“The Three Elementary Bridges in Life Are: Imaginative and prescient, Braveness, Dedication. He Who Does Not Personal Him Deserves Failure”
The structure and imaginative and prescient (and the wine) listed here are solely part of the customer expertise, which is summed up by the vineyard solely being a part of the larger Borgo San Gregorio mission.
At Borgo San Gregorio’s outstanding restaurant, San Gregorio, chef Danilo Uva attracts on produce from the property’s vegetable and fragrant gardens. They produce dishes corresponding to barbecued “Laticauda” lamb with white mulberry chutney and radishes, in a room highlighted by a “nest” of chestnut branches that homes the sommelier’s desk and a glass-walled kitchen.
The property has rooms for friends at its Naturalia Maison and Botanica Maison. A keep at Borgo San Gregorio is past only a tasting expertise. Sure, style the wines, however recognize the play of artwork and wine and structure, dine on the restaurant, picnic on the property, discover the vegetable backyard, and way more.
Wine to attempt
Feudi di San Gregorio Serpico
Serpico has energy, no query, however class as properly, and its darkish, plummy fruit is balanced by a recent line of acidity. This signature pink additionally has that uncommon high quality of being an age-worthy wine that drinks properly on launch. It comes from the property’s historic “Dal Re” winery of pre-phylloxera Aglianico vines.
Gianfranco Fino, Puglia
This iconic Apulian vineyard, based in 2004 and run by wine maker Gianfranco Fino and Simona Natale, has been key to the rising appreciation for Negroamaro, and, much more than that, the rebirth of Primitivo di Manduria. In only a few years, beginning with its buy of an historic, 2.2-acre Primitivo winery, the Gianfranco Fino vineyard has change into identified within the Italian wine world for its total excellence, and notably for its Primitivo Manduria ES, a full-bodied, intense, award-winning pink.
Gianfranco Fino isn’t just a vineyard, it’s additionally an amazing vacation spot by way of ecotourism. In 2021, the vineyard inaugurated a brand new cellar, a standout instance of recent, eco-sustainable design, made fully from native stone, wooden, and different pure supplies, that integrates completely with the encompassing surroundings.
Along with the winemaking and barrel ageing rooms, the constructing additionally has 4 suites for guests, providing views of the vineyards of Manduria. There’s a wine bar within the courtyard, a tasting room on the bottom flooring, a captivating cellar room for occasions, and a gourmand restaurant, not too long ago added to the Michelin Information for Italy.
ES Cantina & Ristorante, with its panoramic terrace overlooking the vineyards and olive groves, is helmed by chef Simone Profeta. Initially from Naples, Profeta has created a menu that pulls inspiration from native merchandise, usually harvested instantly from the property’s natural backyard, and evolves repeatedly with the seasons. One in every of ES Cantina’s distinctive elements is its pairing philosophy. Quite than having friends select a wine based mostly on the course, Profeta’s dishes, corresponding to spaghettone with oyster sauce, lime, and Gallipoli prawn tartare, or his braised veal cheek with smoked potato foam and cardoncelli mushrooms, have been created particularly to accompany the completely different Gianfranco Fino wines.
Wine to attempt
Gianfranco Fino Negroamaro Salento Jo
The identify of the wine, Jo, refers back to the Ionian Sea, the identical sea ignored by the traditional vines from which Fino produces this outstanding, red-fruited, savory Negroamaro.
I Cacciagalli, Campania
The Caserta space might not be among the many most famous by way of its wines, or the primary that involves thoughts for wine tourism. But, it will not take lengthy to interrupt from preconceptions when you’re enchanted by the fantastic thing about this a part of Campania, which extends to the slopes of the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina. And when you get to style the wine that comes from these components.
The wines of I Cacciagalli should actually be included. The Iannaccone household began the vineyard once they bought an 18th-century farmhouse, which they enlarged and modernized. There at the moment are 30 acres of vineyards devoted to native Campania varieties corresponding to Fiano, Falanghina, Pallagrello Nero, and Piedirosso, all farmed in line with the ideas of biodynamic agriculture. Olive and hazelnut groves and untouched forest encompass them.
At the moment, Diana Iannaccone and Mario Basco helm I Cacciagalli, and have been liable for the creation of the property’s wine resort. It presents eight rooms, the Humus restaurant (which focuses on native merchandise in line with a “picked and eaten” precept), and a small lake for swimming and leisure, for which the waters of a close-by stream are purified by coconut microfiber.
Wine and further virgin olive oil tastings are accompanied by small plates based mostly on native and/or Gradual Meals merchandise corresponding to Teano chickpea hummus with curry and goat cheese, home made montanarine (discs of dough that puff up as they fry, typical of Naples), or cream puffs with salmon trout, Pellecchiella del Vesuvio apricots and buffalo stracciata.
Of the assorted wine tasting choices, the one devoted to L’Anfora nel Bicchiere, which covers the method of creating wines in amphora, is especially fascinating.
Wine to attempt
I Cacciagalli Fiano Roccamonfina Zagreo
Fiano grapes, grown biodynamically on the volcanic soils surrounding Teano then vinified in clay amphora, end result on this recent, spicy white (although in fact due to prolonged pores and skin contact, it’s extra orange in hue).