Made-from-scratch brown sugar is not a brand new concept by any stretch, however prior to now, it wasn’t one thing I ever cared about. Partially, I used to be skeptical {that a} “do-it-yourself” mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses may in some way style any higher than “actual” brown sugar…a mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses.
My logic was that, until you bothered to start out with a jar of notably scrumptious small-batch molasses, there have been no actual good points available—a logic that fell aside the second a good friend of mine known as in a panic as a result of she was out of brown sugar for her favourite dessert, with friends all however on her doorstep. Guiding her by the method of creating the swap was straightforward, she did not need to drop every thing to drive to the shop, her bourbon pecan layer cake turned out stunning, and I discovered the actual worth of do-it-yourself brown sugar: expedience.
In the event you ever run out of brown sugar, falling again on a jar of molasses to whip up an emergency batch is a superb plan B—as long as you go about it the fitting means. At the beginning, which means utilizing true molasses and never blackstrap, which ought to by no means be utilized in any recipe until it is known as for by title (full report on that matter right here). The second half of the equation is definitely understanding the equation. See, store-bought brown sugar is about 10% molasses by weight, however that does not imply you possibly can simply multiply a given weight of white sugar by 0.1 to find out how a lot molasses is required. At first blush, that calculation makes good sense (and that is the method you will see bandied about most frequently on-line), but it surely winds up making the brown sugar too gentle. Even lighter than gentle brown sugar, which is what most recipes take into account.*
Except a recipe calls particularly for “darkish brown sugar,” it is protected to imagine gentle brown sugar is what the writer supposed. Making darkish brown sugar is about including not simply extra molasses but additionally darker molasses, and, for the aim of this put up, that is a bit extra difficult a subject than I am ready to unpack.
For a cup of white sugar (seven ounces), 10% is about one tablespoon (3/4 ounce), which is fairly handy for people measuring by quantity. However as soon as the white sugar and molasses are combined collectively, you have bought 7 3/4 ounces complete, making that molasses simply 9% of the entire weight. Now, chances are you’ll be pondering, “Shut sufficient,” however within the realm of baking, that may be a harmful factor. And not using a full 10% molasses content material, do-it-yourself variations will behave extra like white sugar than brown, which might have a big effect on cookies particularly, altering how they unfold, rise, and brown. You’ll be able to try a full breakdown of these variations right here.
With a view to precisely mix your personal gentle brown sugar at dwelling, it is essential to do not forget that for nevertheless a lot molasses you add, that a lot white sugar wants to return out. Going again to my earlier instance, seven ounces of sugar needs to be diminished to six 1/4 ounces, in order that 3/4 ounce molasses can be 10% of the entire weight. Spelling it out sounds difficult, however do not overthink it. All you might want to keep in mind is that 6 1/4 ounces of white sugar plus 3/4 ounce molasses equals seven ounces of brown sugar.
You may make up an enormous batch that can preserve for a few month, however in case you have a scale, you possibly can calculate precisely how a lot white sugar and molasses you will want to exchange any given amount of brown sugar. Simply multiply the load of the brown sugar by 10% to learn how a lot molasses you will want, then subtract that quantity from the entire to find out the load of the white sugar you will want. In the event you occur to have any flippantly toasted sugar available, maybe left over from blind-baking a pie, it may be used like white sugar so as to add some caramel notes that can give do-it-yourself brown sugar a extra nuanced sweetness.
The precise coloration of the outcomes will rely in your particular model of molasses and whether or not or not the sugar is toasted, however you possibly can sometimes count on it to have a considerably redder undertone than conventional brown sugar (doubtless as a result of deeper brown shades discovered in additional concentrated types of molasses). Ounce for ounce, do-it-yourself brown sugar is extra voluminous than what you discover on the retailer, just because it hasn’t had an opportunity to compact over time. However, as long as it is measured precisely, in each preparation and use, it would behave in a lot the identical means.
On the left, we have now samples from a batch of my favourite One-Bowl Oatmeal Cookies made with business brown sugar, and, on the fitting, cookies made with DIY brown sugar. Whereas they unfold a bit of extra irregularly total, the latter cookies nonetheless averaged about three inches throughout. If I abruptly found I used to be 86’d on brown sugar, I would gladly take that discrepancy over the choice of getting no cookies in any respect.
I will doubtless at all times favor the comfort of business brown sugar, which is each inexpensive, dependable, and attractive. However when push involves shove, figuring out methods to make a comparable brown sugar from scratch is a trick all bakers ought to sustain their sleeves.