Our second nice eating lunch at a Margaret River vineyard was at Vasse Felix. That is the oldest vineyard in Margeret River, established in 1967 (so in actual fact not outdated for European requirements). Like most wineries in Margaret River, it makes a speciality of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, with additionally some Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Shiraz. The local weather could be very delicate, with small temperature variations between day and night time or between summer time and winter, with a dry summer time. The local weather is considerably just like a dry classic in Bordeaux. We had the tasting menu (6 programs for AU$ 120) with ‘premier’ wine pairing (4 glasses for $45). There’s additionally a Filius wine pairing for $39 or an ‘icon’ wine pairing for $75, during which the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are downgraded/upgraded. As I had tasted the ‘icon’ Heytesbury Chardonnay of the present classic and thought it was too younger (ingesting it might be ‘child homicide’), I requested whether or not it might be doable to improve the 2023 Chardonnay to the 2019 Heytesbury Chardonnay (listed for $50 per glass on the wine checklist). This was not doable as an improve, however I may in fact order the 2019 Heytesbury along with the wine pairing, and that’s what I did (giving the 2023 Chardonnay to Kees, who was the designated driver so may solely drink one or two glasses anyway).
We began the pairing with a standard technique glowing Blanc de Blanc, 100% Chardonnay. Opposite to the glowing at Wills Area, this was a ‘critical’ conventional technique wine, aged for 21 months on the lees (somewhat than solely 3), and fairly good.
It was a very good pairing for the squid ink pierogi, a Polish sort of dumpling, stuffed with sausage and potato, and served with beurre noisette, and salmon roe.
The next wine was the 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, aged in oak barrels, and due to this fact extra structured and fewer fragrant than a ‘common’ Sauvignon Blanc.
This was an affordable pairing with the cured however in any other case uncooked kingfish with rhubarb, herb oil, and pink pepper. The kingfish was stated to be cured in ginger, however I may not likely detect any ginger. I consider curing with a bit extra salt would have improved the flavour. Regardless of the recent substances (rhubarb, pink pepper, and ginger), the dish had a creamy profile general, and would have labored higher with a extra creamy wine. The dish made the wine barely astringent.
The next wine was the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, which has been produced since 1972. It’s truly a mix with 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec, and 1% Merlot, aged 18 months in French barriques (34% new). With out meals the wine was a bit younger and the oak overpowering the fruit a bit.
It was nevertheless a superb pairing with the meat with black garlic sauce; the dish actually introduced out the fruit within the wine. The meat (I consider it was blade steak) had been cooked sous vide after which completed within the oven. It wanted the softened tendon (gelatin) and the sauce, as the meat by itself was barely dry. There was additionally some laminated potato with tofu, which did have a very good potato taste, however in any other case was a bit bland (and I’m not positive in regards to the goal of the tofu).
The subsequent serving was a palate cleanser of a yuzu marsmellow full of mango icecream. This palate cleanser was mandatory as Vasse Felix wished to serve the (in keeping with them) extra elegant Cabernet Sauvignon earlier than the extra fragrant Chardonnay. I may not likely make out the yuzu, but it surely was good.
Subsequent was the 2019 Heytesbury Chardonnay, which was certainly much less ‘child homicide’ than the 2023 I had tasted earlier than. Though it additionally appeared to me that 2019 was much less highly effective as a classic than 2023, though in fact it might solely be an sincere comparability to match the 2019 with the 2023 how it is going to be in 4 years’ time. In any case a properly balanced Chardonnay. Vasse Felix is likely one of the few producers in Margaret River that also does malolactic on his Chardonnays, and I applaud that, because the acids are in any other case too aggressive for my style.
This was a very good pairing for the toothfish, lacquered with miso and hen inventory, with eggplant mousse, and a potato dumpling with herb oil. The toothfish had been cured first and had a superb texture and taste. The eggplant mousse was very delicate in taste, and the potato dumpling was too rubbery (in all probability by utilizing an excessive amount of flour, a standard mistake when making potato gnocchi) and missing in taste. The pairing with the ‘common’ Chardonnay that Kees had, didn’t work both, as a result of the wine couldn’t deal with the glaze on the fish (partially as a result of it was served too chilly).
The dessert was a crumbled parfait/semifreddo of toasted rice and pear, with kiwi and elderflower. The flavors and textures have been good.
Meals, wine, and repair have been all good, however the dishes didn’t meet the expectations I had due to the status of the restaurant and the worth.
